Pagoda: Spicy, Sweet & Nutty

Jenny Scarborough

Ryan McCuaig is one of Ocracoke's young entrepreneurs.

Pagoda, the tiny shop he opened three years ago, at age 23, is in The Community Square, tucked down a walkway between The Fudge and Ice Cream Shop and Island Quest Gifts.  Ryan's smoke shop sells hand blown glass pieces by Outer Banks artists, cigars, and the kind of lifestyle accessories one would expect, like tapestries, colorful cloth handbags, candles, and cushy flip flops.

Pagoda:  Spicy, Sweet & Nutty

Ryan grew up in Greenville, NC, and visited Ocracoke shortly after graduating from high school.  He didn't know a single person, but knew he wanted to stay.  "For some reason, it just kind of clicked," he said.  Within a few days, Ryan had a job at the gas station.  His first summer was spent living in a tent at the Beachcomber Campground.  "I felt like the luckiest person in the world," said Ryan.

After living here full time for several years, he concluded that having his own business would help him plant roots and afford life on the island.  "I didn't go into this with a whole lot of planning.  I was 22 and I didn't have the capital or the knowledge,"  Ryan said.  He twirls his mustache as he thinks of what to say next.  "I thought it would be neat to have something I could call my own." 

Pagoda provides respite from the asphalt and bustle of the downtown drag.  Ryan was working on his herb garden the morning I stopped in.  "What's a smoke shop without an herb garden?" he quipped.  "I love plants."

Pagoda:  Spicy, Sweet & Nutty

There are comfy chairs under a shady cedar; fig, and lime trees, and --it must be said--a good vibe.  Ryan is enthusiastic about making the space even nicer and more cozy.  

"It's nice to see people enjoying themselves," observed Ryan, who welcomes everyone to sit and relax.  "There are no politics in this store.  That's why we have pipes and cigars."

The indoor space is similarly chill and welcoming, with a 1930s Amish ice chest made of oak, re-purposed as a humidor, a collection of vinyl records to thumb through, and a small selection of used books to browse.  Feel free to exchange a book or take one, said Ryan, who added that most are from his grandmother.  "Make a donation if you feel like Nanny should have a few dollars," he laughed. 

Selling cigars is the most exciting part, said Ryan.  "The majority of my customers are not everyday smokers.  Lots of folks on vacation want to relax and have a good cigar." 

He strives to match the smoker to the right cigar, whether spicy, nutty or sweet.  "Cigars are similar to wine.  There are hundreds of thousands out there, and price doesn't necessarily reflect quality."  Cigars at Pagoda cost between $5 and $20.  Macanudo and Romeo y Julieta are popular brands. 

Other patrons shop at Pagoda for the glass pipes.  Smoking cigars and good tobacco "is not something you rush," said Ryan.  Pipes reflect the personality of the smoker, and Pagoda offers a small but diverse selection of glass.  The monster pipes by Nick O'Dell are funny and fetching.

Monster pipes by glass artist Nick O'Dell
Monster pipes by glass artist Nick O'Dell

For people who prefer their airways to remain clear, Pagoda sells funky beaded jewelry, affordable, stylish sunglasses, and candles handmade on Ocracoke by Ryan's girlfriend, Jess Hoodak.  Jess uses essential oils, soy wax and coffee from Ocracoke Coffee Co. in her candles, which are made in the couple's kitchen.

"I help by staying out of the way," said Ryan. 

A lot of locals sport Pagoda T-shirts, as well as the biodegradable Feelgoodz flip flops Ryan sells.  They are made by a small company in New Orleans that uses free trade rubber from Thailand.  "It's like walking on yoga mats," said Ryan.  He is not re-ordering until next spring, and his remaining stock of Feelgoodz is steeply discounted to $10/pair. 

Pagoda is growing slowly, and Ryan is committed to the long haul on Ocracoke.  In the meantime, Ryan supplements his income by working mornings at Ocracoke Coffee Co. and evenings at Ocracoke Pizza Co.  This fall, Pagoda will be open from 11 -ish to 4 -ish Tuesday through Saturday.  

 

 

 

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